Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Give it to Tony. He'll eat it.

I've said it before and I'll say it 'til the end of time...I am a bookworm. I love to read almost as much as I love to cook...maybe just as much, actually! To be fair to books, I have been reading longer than I've been cooking (by a few measly years), so I should definitely give books credit where credit is due! So, imagine if you will how thrilled I was to stumble across the group Cook the Books. Cook the Books is group of bloggers (I think mostly or all foodie bloggers, but since I'm not positive I won't confirm) who pick a book to read on a bi-monthly schedule, then cook something up...related to the book in some form...and blog about it! Brilliant. So I jumped on the bandwagon (let's call it a bookmobile in this instance) and rented this month's pick from the library. I think I'd actually started it before, but never finished it...so, here was my chance. The book du jour this time was Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain.

Ah, Tony (think he'd mind me calling him Tony??)...what can I say. He is a paradox. He's the kind of guy you love to hate...but also, you hate to love him. He's a food snob. Yet, he loves the salt of the earth people...and their food and their cooking. He has a loud mouth, but he knows when to shut it (okay, usually). If you haven't worked in a restaurant kitchen before, you may find yourself picking up your jaw after reading about the, shall we call them...antics, that go on behind the scenes. But for somebody who has done their time in the trenches...picked up those scalding saute pans bare-handed and kept on working...thrown jabs with the big guys...hoarded side towels, had their mise en place raided, worked all night...and the next day, too...worked side by side with some of the greatest misfits in town...I found myself laughing, nodding my head, reminiscing and actually identifying with parts of this book. Now, I am definitely not claiming to have seen or done all of the crazy things Mr. Bourdain has, but I could tell a few tales. Hmmm, maybe I will write it all down...you never know, right.

Communing with Tony made me want to make something a bit different than I make on a day to day basis. It's hard to think of him without thinking of his travels and mis-adventures. He makes me want to make something cringe-inducing...okay, I don't actually think he would cringe at what I decided to make, but I think some people would. Even though there's not really any reason to shy away from....Lengua. Tongue. In the U.S., most of us weren't raised to eat the offal. Offal is considered to be garbage or waste. I usually consider parts like kidney, liver, heart, tripe, sweetbreads, ears & snout to be offal. I'm pretty sure tongue would fit into that category, though. My husband loves tongue (why does this sentence make me think of Donna?)...but I have actually never prepared it at home. We usually order it in tacos if we're at the Taqueria. But, going along with the theme of this book, tongue also reminds me of a time while I was doing my culinary apprenticeship. I did my apprenticeship on the campus of a large University...this enabled me to see most, if not all facets of food service. Sometimes I worked in the dining halls or with catering, sometimes in the test kitchen, other times in the bakery or the support facility/prep/warehouse. You may think I'm leading up to some of my time spent in the Butcher shop. Reasonable assumption...but nope, I'm actually going to tell you about something that happened while I was logging in some time at the fine-dining restaurant.

I was very fortunate to do my apprenticeship in a place where we made everything from scratch. I squirmed my way through killing my first lobsters (they still move even after their tales are removed!), I butchered so many types of fish, broke down sides of beef, lamb and pig...even had a chance to see live eels come in one day! You seriously have to slam them on the head and then skin them! Bourdain tells the truth about this business....brutal, but true. But, I digress... One day there was a big, long beef tongue hanging in the cooler. This was the first time I'd ever seen the tongue separate from the cow. If you've ever been licked by a cow, you know how long their tongues are...but picture a tongue all by itself! So... it's the time of the day when we cook employee meal (or family meal). Usually the front of the house & the rest of the staff (the restaurant is in a hotel) doesn't know what the day's meal is until it's in the window. Well, this particular day it happened to be shredded beef tacos. Every one ate with gusto, a lot sent their compliments to the chef(s)...all went on with their shift. Not one of them was any the wiser...the shredded beef they had just devoured so readily was actually TONGUE! Seriously, tongue is tender and beefy tasting....and obviously, when mixed with a few seasonings can pass as some roasted "regular" beef. I didn't actually cook the tongue, as I was the lowly apprentice (which actually surprises me....seems like they'd have forced me, just to get a reaction), but I was in on the secret.

Since the book coaxed the memory of the, shall we call it... "tongue incident", not to mention the constant reminder from hubby at how much he wants me to make some...I decided to do the deed myself and make a dish with Beef Tongue. So, this is for Tony & my devoted hubby. I looked to Rick Bayless for guidance on preparing the tongue...I followed his technique and adapted one of his recipes. I also have to say that I debated for a long while about whether or not to post pictures of "the tongue." I decided on the ones that were least cringe-inducing. I wanted to share the technique...but wasn't sure what kind of reaction it would get. If you want to see more pictures of it, click here.

Lengua a la Veracruzana

adapted from the recipe by Rick Bayless from Authentic Mexican p 213

~3 lb Beef Tongue

1 1/2 Tbs olive oil

1 1/2 Tbs vegetable oil

1 medium onion, sliced thin

1 can stewed tomatoes w/ Italian seasonings

1 can whole tomatoes

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbs capers (plus more for garnish)

2 pickled jalapenos + 1 Tbs of pickling juice

1 1/2 tsp mixed dried herbs (marjoram, oregano, thyme)

2 Tbs chopped parsley (plus more for garnish)

3 bay leaves

1 cinnamon stick

2 cloves

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 c reserved tongue broth

salt, to taste

Soak the tongue in salted water for 3 hours, in refrigerator. Place tongue in large pot and cover with more cold, generously salted water. Add some onions, garlic & herbs (separate from ones listed above) to the pot. Bring to a boil, lower to simmer and cook for 3-4 hours, until tender.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Strain and degrease broth. Reserve 1 cup. Strip off the tongue's skin. Pull out any bones from the big end (if there are any) and cut off ~3/4 inch from that end. Cut off the fatty section along the bottom. Slice into 1/4" thick slices. Lay slices, overlapping in several rows in a baking dish.
Prepare the sauce: In a large skillet, heat oil over medium. Add onion and cook, stirring until golden. Add garlic and cook another minute or so, until soft. Add tomatoes and their juices. Simmer for ~5 minutes, pressing down on tomatoes to break up a bit. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for ~10 minutes, until cooked down a bit. Discard cinnamon stick and bay leaves.

Spoon sauce over prepared tongue. Put in preheated oven and cook for 20-30 minutes, until sauce is bubbly.Serve garnished with some more capers and parsley.I enjoyed making something that is out of the norm for me. And it really was delicious! I "hid" the tongue from the kiddos until it was not recognizable as a tongue anymore...but I didn't create another tongue incident (I couldn't...it's not like saying tuna is chicken...). I showed the pictures to my oldest and you should have heard the reaction..."OH MY GOSH....GROSS...NO WAY...TONGUE!...HOW CAN YOU EAT THAT!?...OH GOD...OHHHHH MOM!" and so on. Tee hee...it was like a dinner bell, drawing in the rest of the little ones, but I have yet to show them the photos. I'll definitely make it again. Someday.

I can't wait to see what the next book choice will be. If you'd like to hop on the "bookmobile" too, head on over to Cook the Books for more information. I finished early...still time to do a dish inspired by this book by Anthony Bourdain!

30 comments:

  • Spryte

    Wow!! I think I'd be afraid to make tongue. I'd definitely have to try it without knowing what it was!!

  • SUGAMAMA'S CAFE'

    LOL a few years back daughter had a fear factor party and one of the dishes was tongue... I cut it in chunks and made them eat it..The more pieces you ate the more points you received.... I laughed for ever! it was the best... Thanks for the reminder!
    Wonderful post! OH by the way love the music!

  • girlichef

    ...ha ha ha ha...SugaMama, what a fun idea for a party, think i'll suggest it to my son...see how the big guys can handle it :D

  • Debinhawaii

    You are a far better and braver woman than I am! I have eaten tongue and it was fine but I just don't think I could ever cook it. Way to set the bar high for Cook The Books! An excellent review and the perfect dish to make for it. So glad you are participating! I am in awe!

  • Talita

    After the tongue was sliced, I could try, but before...
    The dishes, after all, looks tasty.

  • Tangled Noodle

    YAAAY! This is awesome!! I love lengua but have never cooked it before. Now that I've seen your technique for prepping it, I'm going to make one of my most favorite Filipino dishes featuring this. Bravo for choosing a dish that's not going to be everyone's favorite but you're doing your part to expand culinary horizons.

    I meant to let you know that I finally acknowledged your passing of the Friends award to me but you are on the ball and beat me to it! Thanks and feel free to feature more 'offal' dishes! (And I'll have to check out this blogger book group!)

  • Natashya

    Holy, girl!
    You are one brave chica. I am too squeamish to eat offal - but I admire you for preparing it.

  • Tanielle

    WOW! I don't know that I could eat tongue, I know I couldn't cook it. You are amazing!!!! I'd try it if you prepared the dish for me!:-)

  • Donna-FFW

    Wow.. interesting,.. I have never tried it and I probably won't, but I can imagine all the fun Id have posting about it. The tongue uncooked is quite obscene;)LOL Awesome job!

  • Heather

    i adore anthony bordain, but i absolutely could not eat beef tongue! you're very brave! (and so is he ;) )

  • girlichef

    ...I absolutely love all of the reactions to this post!!! I hoped it would "stir" something up!

  • ChefBliss.com

    I'm not sure what to say here. We were fed tongue OFTEN as kids. I didn't like it then, and I'm not really wanting to find out if I like it now!! LOL!!! Having said that, you did a great job!!

  • Selba

    Hi.. I'm blog hopping in here :)

    The food in here looks so yummy!

  • Chef E

    Oh, you had me until I saw the tongue, but hubby would so love for me to make this, what guts you have...he eats bugs I refuse...

    Love the comment about Donna and the tongue, so know what you mean *wink* she is a hoot and a hollar in Texas talk, lol

    Thanks for coming over, I am going to follow you and am totally a Bookie myself!

  • Reeni♥

    EWWWW! With that out of the way how brave you are for cooking it and eating it. I totally believe you when you say it's delicious but I would not be able to get past what it actually is. The finished dish does look good!

  • girlichef

    ...hi Selba! Thanks for popping in!

    ...and Chef E, I enjoy reading your blog and am so excited to have you here :)

    ...ha ha ha Reeni!

    ...I don't blame anybody for NOT wanting to eat tongue. Seriously, I don't. But if ur ever offered a little taste (and haven't been previously traumatized...ChefBliss...take a little nibble, cuz you never know). Or not ;)

  • 5 Star Foodie

    Ooo, the tongue sounds really good to me! My mom used to make it when I was little and it was considered a holiday back in Ukraine when we could get the tongue. Hers was a much simpler recipe but I loved it anyway. Now, my husband is not a fan so I haven't made it in years.

  • Karen Brown Letarte

    "Lengua" is beloved by many people around the world and I am sure it can be quite delicious. I haven't ever tried beef tongue, but I was brave enough to try a lamb tongue appetizer at at Obelisk in DC once. (Hated it.) Your dish looks delicious! The only experience I've had with beef tongue was when my mom brought some home to cook for dinner when I was 9. Looking back, I remember that we were so poor at the time, so she was probably trying to stretch the grocery dollars. At any rate, I refused to eat the tongue, saying I would not eat something that had been in someone else's mouth!

  • girlichef

    ...LOL Karen! :D

  • burpandslurp

    wOW! this group sounds amazingly fun! I'm glad you picked Bourdain! He's an interesting fella, and VERY witty writer as well!I've read all of his books, and loved them all.
    hmm...tongue! it actually looks good! I woudn't have known it was made from tongue. that said, I've read about the English eating tongue sandwiches, and always thought, "it isn't REALLY tongue, is it?" guess it is! haha!
    that said, CONGRATS and KUDOS on being brave and adventurous! you'd make bourdain proud!

  • Scate

    This was a fantastic book - fun and fast to read. I also love Tony's TV show on the travel channel. Tongue... well, that first picture did it for me. I would absolutely try it - but not sure i'd want to work so hard to cover up the taste in cooking it! Great post - and great blog!

  • C.G. the Foodie

    I have got to read that book!

    My mother used to cook us tongue. Only she wouldn't remove the skin and since then I have never been able to stomach it! This sounds tasty though... but I am not brave enough to try it out!

  • Laurie

    I married into a family who regularly eats lengua. My mother in-law makes it very similar to how you show it in this recipe. I really was surprised at how delicious and tender it was. Very beautiful representation! :)

  • FoodJunkie

    lovely post! You are so lucky to have actually experienced what Tony describes in his book. I am jealous!

  • Rachel

    I love your behind the scenes kitchen tales and your take on this Cook the Books book selection. Well done!

  • Joanne

    I think the rate-limiting step in cooking tongue for me would be the point at which it still looks like tongue. Once it's cooked it all looks the same, right?

    The finished product looks really good! And it is so cool that you've gotten to experience some of Tony's experiences...that is something I wish I could have done in my life.

  • Suzie

    What a great post and a great story about tongue.... My grandmother used to love tongue as well.

  • Suzie

    Such a gret post and a great story. I really enjoyed the book and the view inside the professional kitchen - maybe you should write that book....

  • Foodycat

    Fantastic entry - such a great story. I've only had tongue a couple of times; done the British way, cooked and then pressed and eaten cold like ham. It's delicious, but I think your way looks better!

  • cantbelieveweate

    Oh my heck! Look what you went and did! LOL! My father introduced me to cold boiled tongue when I was about...8. The trauma from that one is still with me today. BUT - - this looks like something I could do, and enjoy! Way to go!!